About my work

The swords I make are inspired from museum models.

It's possible to make reenactment of a museum sword from original measurements or make a sword from your own drawing and feeling.

Troughout the year, I work with specialists people (archaeologists or fencers).

Aesthetic and especially proportions are really important points in the building of a sword.

Proportions allow a good balance, an optimum handling and a accurate behavior of a sword.

That is why I made the choice to make fully fonctional sharped swords like the Ancestors did.


I practice my job by hand with traditional knifemaker tools in my workshop.

I make my swords from A to Z.

On some projects, I work with specialized craftmen.


Every parts of the swords I make are crafted with blacksmithing techniques, even when the crossguards and pommels (shapes and holes) are made of iron, copper or bronze.

The fullers you can find on some blades are made with power hammer matrix.

Sometimes, some crossguard and pommels can be made in several parts.



 I propose 3 ranges of swords:


-Swords forged with modern homogeneous steel, that offers a good flexibility and hard edges (about 55/56 Hrc).

These swords are easy to maintain and you can use it for intensive work.

I propose two kinds of finishes for this first range: basic polishing (mechanical) and further polishing (hand polishing).

You can find a work in progress of this range here.



-Swords forged with laminated steel/multilayered steel are a good compromise between efficiency and historicity. These blades are forged with different hard steel of equal hardness. The cutting edges are a little bit harder than the homogeneous steel swords and it keep a good flexibility too (good spring effect).

The crossguards and pommels are forged with old wrought iron (about XIXth century).

Sometimes, this wrought iron recalls the aesthetic aspect of an iron made with blast furnace technique.

On demand, I can increase the revelation of the structure of this metal (damascus apsect, or not).

I propose two kinds of making for this range:

Blade made with classics hards steel (about 56/57 Hrc) or blade made with sanmai technique: a "sandwich blade" (technic used till the end of the XVth century) made of two layers of hard laminated steels with an iron soft core. The cutting edges can be a little bit harder than the classic laminated steel method.
(hardness higher 57/58 Hrc).

Finish are made by hand for this range.

You can find a work in progress of this range here.



-Swords made with iron and steel produced direcly from the iron ore with the bloomery iron furnace technic (craft method). This range is the most accomplished way for historical reenactment.

Here, I work with french metallurgists craftsmen specialized in the making of iron and hard steel.

The hardness of the blade can depend of period and on type of sword.


During the making of the sword, I take a big care of using only historic materials (in particular for the natural glue I make for the traditional mount for the Roman or Celtic swords for example).

I can work with soft iron for the antique swords, and I can make hard blade for the late models too.

Hardness on the cutting edges can be high with this technique, till 60 Hrc with a sanmai method (it depends of the kind of sword you are looking for).


Finish are made by hand for this range.

You can find a work in progress of this range here.



-For many years, customers ask me to put a relic into the pommel or into the handle for example.

It's possible to put cristal rock on the surface of a pommel with a little relic hidden behind (like a hair strand for example).

I can make a little cavity (about 6 mm diameter) into the pommel to put a relic too. This cavity is closed with a stopper (made of silver, bronze or iron).

Often, for the relic, I use natural sands from different places:

Sand from the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem or sand from the Western Wall of Jeruzalem too.

Sand from Le Mont Saint-Michel in France or sand from of real Pilgrimage of Compostela (camino de Santiago) made in 2004.


-Making of the handle with bone, horn, wood, mammoth ivory, natural leather, natural silk velvet made in France,...


-It's possible to make engravings on the different part of the sword (blade, crossguard or pommel).


-Silver plating and gilding (24 carat gold) on ferrous and non-ferrous parts of the sword (blade, crossguard, pommel).


-Enamelled pommel.


-Inlays/overlay made of brass, copper or silver wire. I use two techniques:

Traditional dovetail inlay technique or traditional viking method inspired from the indian overlay named "koftgari".